Touring bicycle at the highest point in Thailand, Doi Inthanon, at 2,565 meters above sea level

Mae Hong Son Loop by Bicycle

The Mae Hong Son Loop in northern Thailand is often called the “Road of a Thousand Curves”, after its famous 1,864 curves. It leads through the hilly northwest of the country and is about 600 km long. Usually it starts and ends in Chiang Mai.

It is not worth a trip to Thailand on its own because of its length, but if you are in the area it is absolutely worth it.

Curving road with a yellow center line next to a hillside cornfield, with forested hills in the background — One of the many curves that give the loop its name.

Where I started

Because of how I arrived, I didn’t start in Chiang Mai but in Ban Luang, a small town near Doi Inthanon that few tourists visit. From there I rode straight up Doi Inthanon and then continued the loop clockwise.

Road and bike

The whole loop is paved with asphalt in good condition. You don’t need a touring or gravel bike for it. You can rent a road bike in Chiang Mai and ride the loop with light luggage.

Asphalt road with a yellow center line and a few cracks, lined with dense green jungle on both sides — Small roads with little traffic make the loop special.

Smooth asphalt road with a yellow center line curving through dry grass and green hills under a blue sky — Good asphalt almost the whole way.

Doi Inthanon: know this before you go

Cyclists are not allowed to ride down Doi Inthanon. I didn’t know this and rode down without any problems. If I had known, I might have planned differently or skipped it. Check the current rules before you go.

The climb is easy to underestimate. Especially in the upper part there are many very steep sections.

The loop is hard

After Doi Inthanon it doesn’t get easier. The loop keeps leading over very steep ramps. I rode it in a couple of days. Over the whole loop I covered about 480 km and 12,000 m of climbing, and each of the first three days had more than 3,000 m.

Day	Destination	Distance	Climbing
Day 1	Small village (via Doi Inthanon)	116.8 km	3,728 m
Day 2	Mae Hong Son	128.3 km	3,237 m
Day 3	Pai	106.3 km	3,022 m
Day 4	Chiang Mai	129.3 km	2,014 m
Total		480.7 km	12,001 m

Road through a small village with simple shops on both sides, dusty ground and hills in the background — The loop passes through many small villages where you can stop for food and water.

Best time to ride

I rode the loop at the end of November and beginning of December, and the temperatures were very pleasant. Mornings were partly still cool, especially at higher elevations, so pack a warm layer for the start of the day.

Sleeping

I stayed in guesthouses and hostels the whole time and never camped. Accommodation in Thailand is very affordable, so a tent is unnecessary weight.

Night 1: Guesthouse in a small village
Night 2, Mae Hong Son: Guesthouse. The only hostel in town was full, so book ahead if you prefer a hostel. I liked Mae Hong Son a lot: it is a quiet town without too many tourists, and the night market around the lake in the middle of town is very nice.
Night 3, Pai: Hostel. Pai was too touristy for my taste, so for me it is only good as a place to sleep.

Wooden balcony of a guesthouse overlooking green jungle and banana plants under a colorful sky — The guesthouse in a small village after the first day over Doi Inthanon.

Night market lights reflected in a lake in Mae Hong Son, with a lit temple on the hill above — The night market around the lake is one of the best things about Mae Hong Son.

Sights along the way

There is a lot to see along the loop, for example Pai Canyon and the Fish Cave. You can stop at whatever interests you. Another option is to stay an extra day in Mae Hong Son and explore the sights from there by scooter.

Monks in orange robes and a visitor feeding fish from a wooden walkway above a clear blue-green pool — Feeding the fish at the Fish Cave.

Continuing after the loop

If you start in Chiang Mai, you don’t have to return there. After Pai, but before you reach Chiang Mai, you can turn off towards Chiang Rai and continue north from there. This turns the loop into the start of a longer route through northern Thailand.

Conclusion

I really enjoyed the Mae Hong Son Loop, even though it is exhausting. The small, quiet roads in Thailand are simply beautiful, and the route is paved and in good condition all the way. On top of that, for me Thai food is among the best in the world, and it is cheap. If you are in northern Thailand with a bike and have a couple of days, I can recommend it.

Small wooden coffee shop on a hillside with a terrace and a view over forested mountains under a blue sky — Small coffee shops with a view make good rest stops on the climbs.

For more long-distance cycling routes worth planning a trip around, see Roads Worth a Journey.